I went back to new orleans for the first time in three years last february. I got there just as the crush of mardi gras was rushing in and the puke was starting to flow into the streets. I got picked up by some friends at the airport on an overcast evening just after my plane had landed after encountering some nasty turbulence. I paid 90 bucks for the ticket and had to transfer twice, and after swaying side to side violently and then dropping fifty feet in the air over lake pontchartrain before gliding smooth again, the plane finally landed. I arrived to a pick-up truck filled with good friends and salvaged rotting produce.
The New Orleans that I encountered this time around was a far cry from the city I said goodbye to in November of 2004 as I barrelled north on a freight train out of the Norfolk Southern Yard across Lake Pontchartrain so many years back. This was a city that had been struck a blow. It was so quiet from what I remember, still holding it's stomach as it got back up from the ground. The mississippi river still lumbered by the casinos effortlessly and the New ORleans Public Belt Railroad still rumbled by Jackson Square with a late night growl in the tangerine midnight light, but everything now seemed so quiet, so sucker-punched and outta breath.
It had been so long since I'd been in that city, living huddled up in the attic space of an abandoned jazz hall at the end of canal street for two months as the rain poured down around us and me and all of my friends tried to figure out ways to dodge warrants. It wasn't my city after all, but who can really say that that city is? It's love is fleeting, more fleeting and scattered than the love of any other city in the country. Nobody can OWN New Orleans. Other cities, they can own you. You can't escape their gaze and their effect on your perspective no matter how much you try. But Nobody can claim that about New Orleans, it's love is all over the place, like somebody you fall in love with who's spread themselves too thin.
The saturn bar on St. Claude wasn't the same anymore, either - the old man who owned the joint had died a few months after the hurricane, and now his cousin or son or some distant relative had taken over the place and put a flat-screen t.v. over the corner of the bar and cleared out all the wonderful clutter the previous owner had collected over the years and had stashed in amassed piles around the wooden balcony. THe place looked semi-clean now, even though the curled photographs of old friends from twenty years ago still adorned the walls as did the bad but charming paintings of palm trees and swamp shacks.
The next day I was riding down Urquhart Street in the ninth ward taking pictures of cypress trees and their cones. It was a bright and sunny day, and some young kids across the street in a shotgun house saw me with my camera and white skin and shouted out "Yo mothafucka, we know you the PO-LEECE!". I just looked at them as they slowly dragged themselves up the steps into the house, gradually taking their resentful looks with them.
The day after I came back to the same tree and seen one of the kids kicking it outside on the steps of the same shotgun house. "what're you doin?" he asked me, this time slightly more curious than angry at the idea of what I was doing. "These are cypress trees. They get big, and they get old. They're related to redwoods, the big-ass trees that grow in california, thats where I'm from. I'm just into this shit, that's why I take pictures of it." "Oh, word?" he said back, slightly interested.
A few nights later I listened to the bar-tender at a gay bar in the marigny tell us about how his house flooded and the water wouldn't stop rising, even as the sun came out again and the weather once again came to resemble that of the tropical paradise of the gulf coast in the summer.